Prusa slicer logo7/1/2023 ![]() ![]() We would advise going for “ concentric” as this places a single perimeter that is easy to remove and provides the structural strength to make sure the lithophane is stable. Generally, all patterns work except for the line and cross pattern. We use this set of 60 degrees to make sure the lithophane is supported and the overhangs can be properly printed. Usually, 3D printers can print overhang angles of over 60 degrees. This setting determines what angle supports should be placed. One of the most important settings to get right next is the “support overhang angle”. This will, in part, make sure that no supports are being generated inside the lithophane. Make sure the support placement is on the “touching build plate”. In Cura, you should first enable the supports. It often is just trying to find what works for you. However, these slicers should have similar settings. We will explain the settings for Cura as we do not use PrucaSlicer or Simpl圓D. So how to make sure it only places support at the right places? But for some lithophane shapes supports are needed, such as for the circular, Christmas star, and heart shapes. Normally you don’t want to use supports with a lithophane as it can automatically place supports in the lithophane which will screw up the lithophane. To make matter worse, even every plastic from different companies are different as well and require some tweaking in the slicer to get a satisfying result.įear not! We’ll go over the most important slicer settings for the most used slicers to help you get great lithophane prints! Every 3D printer is different and will therefore require different slicer settings. So much so that we cannot cover them all. There are many factors that are very important in creating a successful print. ![]() It converts your 3D model (STL file) into a file format the 3D-printer understands (code file) where instructions for the 3D-printer are stored. This is just the basics of what a slicer does. The 3D printer must specifically be told to move from one position to another position while extruding (pushing out) a certain amount of plastic. This must be done because your 3D printer does not understand what it should do with a 3D model. Slicers “slice” your 3D model into many layers and lines. Though setting it to Repetier or Marlin or Sprinter doesn't improve.There are multiple slicers out there but they essentially, down to their core, all do the same. I have set the firmware used in PrusaSlcer as RepRapFirmware. I have the same parameters in both slicers. I use the same starting gcode in PrusaSlicer and S3D. Printing the same part with S3D doesn't exhibit the issue. When I print a rather simple part with PrusaSlicer (using or not P2PP), I have an issue where the infill layers are slightly tapered from the last layer of the bottom solid infill to the first layer of the top solid infill. To have good results with the Palette 3, I have implemented PrusaSlicer 2.4.1 and P2PP script (which creates the additional code for the palette + tweaks the gcode in order to have all the triggers for the Palette). It has been maintained / overhauled many times, so the motion is in good fit (linear bearings / bushings / rods / pulley / belts) I've got the printer for many years now and it provides very consistent print with S3D and Cura. I am setting up a Mosaic Pallette 3 Pro on my cartesian printer with Duet2 / RRF 3.X. ![]()
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